This is a modified Lisette Traveler. I made three of them in 2014 but none of those fit me anymore. So I had to refit the pattern from scratch.
What you see here is the result of many hours of work. I made a number of flat pattern adjustments as I was redrafting the pattern. I shortened the pattern, leaving a longer shirt-tail on the back, which I really like. I cut a size 14 shoulder with a large FBA. I can't remember how much but my darts are huge. (If I make this again I should probably split them and rotate one someplace else.) I also moved the dart so that it pointed upwards - I hate horizontal darts. Then I graded out to a 20 at the hip. I drafted in the size 22 armscye as I was planning to use the 22 sleeve - as it turns out, I had to take in the sleeve seams 1/2" each so I think I can go down to a 20. I also did a forward shoulder adjustment - or so I thought - and adjusted the sleeve to match using this tutorial. And this was all before I even cut into my muslin.
I sewed up the muslin and one sleeve, and noted that I needed a bit more room in the hips. I also decided that I would like to alter the neckline a bit. I really have no idea what I did, and will not be able to replicate it, as I didn't make any notes, so I'll just show you a close-up. It's kind of a v-neck mandarin collar, if there exists such a thing.
Then, rather than making a second quick-and-dirty muslin, I decided to do a "wearable" muslin using that thrifted Kaffe Fasset quilting cotton I previously used for my Tulip dress. In my first draft of this post, I wrote, "this cotton really is much lighter and drapier than other quilting cottons I've used; and has more of a poplin shirting-esque hand." After several wears, I need to come clean and tell you that that is simply not true. It's a nice quilting cotton, but it's still a quilting cotton, lacking the subtle drape that is necessary, in my opinion, to achieve a well-fitting button-down shirt.
I cut out the shirt, taking care not to position any blooms at my bust points, but other than that not paying much attention to pattern placement. When I went to set in the sleeves I had major problems with too much ease in the back of the sleeve. I had adjusted the sleeve heads forward, but I think I forgot to adjust the actual shoulders of my pattern. I redistributed the sleeve cap around the armscye, effectively undoing the sleeve adjustment, and they went in fine. I also put in two fish-eye darts after I sewed the shirt together; just pinching out until I figured out how wide to make them.
Now that I'm wearing the shirt, I see that I really do need that forward-shoulder adjustment. This is another reason that the shirt ended up in the corner of my closet - I hate having to shrug my clothes back throughout the day. Though today I wore it tucked into a skirt, and I didn't have to shrug it back nearly as often. Now that I have paired the two garments, I will probably wear the shirt - as part of this outfit - more regularly.
The skirt is Sew House Seven's Alberta Street Skirt. I've had my eye on this pattern for quite some time, and then I won it in a giveaway. This thrifted denim version is my first. The fabric isn't showing up very accurately in the photos - it is a relatively uniform medium-blue denim.
As dictated by my measurements, I sewed a straight size 16. I initially sewed the side seams with 3/8" seam allowances because I was skeptical about the negative ease for a non-stretch fabric. But the skirt was definitely too big. So I resewed from the hem to the mid-hip with the prescribed 5/8" allowance. I left the smaller allowances in the upper hip and waistband. When I am standing, the waist seems a little loose. But when I sit down, my fluff shifts and fills everything out. If the waist were tighter, I think it would be uncomfortable to sit in. Or maybe it would just ride up. Either way, I hate that.
The pockets are what drew me to the pattern in the first place, only I thought they were interesting seam lines. As pockets, they're not super-useful because the skirt is so fitted. They're nice and big but anything you put in them is visible against your leg. I didn't think to reinforce the diagonal openings of the pockets, but I think it is advisable so that they don't stretch out of shape with wear.